What you need to know about A/C Systems

Many Sellers, Real Estate Attorneys and Real Estate Sales Agents want a simple yes or no answer when a home inspector is asked the question: Is the air conditioning system functioning properly? However, a simple yes or no answer cannot address this question appropriately unless all of the following items are inspected during a home inspection.

1. Is there evidence that the system was not professionally installed under the proper building permit and inspected by the local building department having jurisdiction?
2. Is there evidence that the system has not been maintained properly?
3. Is the system properly sized for the home?
4. How old are the systems major components?
5. Do the major components appear to be functioning properly?
6. Are the evaporator and condensing coils clean and free of noticeable corrosion?
7. Does the air filter element fit properly and is it keeping the evaporator coil clean?
8. Is the condensate pan and air handler housing sufficiently water tight to prevent condensate leaks?
9. Is there anything restricting air flow to the evaporator coil or condensing unit?
10. Are there air leaks in the ductwork?
11. Are there any signs of damage to the materials under the air handler due to condensate formation or leaks?
12. Is condensate from the air handler managed properly and freely draining outside the home?
13. Are there safety devices such as secondary pans and drains or leak detection shut off switches installed in or under the air handler?
14. Are all cold surfaces properly insulated to prevent surface condensation from forming?
15. Is the difference in the temperature of the supply air and return air between 15 and 20º F?
16. Do the system controls function properly?

A home inspector should be able to answer all of the above questions if these elements are reasonably accessible.

Answering the above questions gives a good inspector enough information to assess the general condition of the system but it doesn’t mean that there aren’t any unseen problems. Should those above items cause concern for a home inspector, it is prudent to have an A/C service technician address them and perhaps perform some additional tests. There are additional checks that can be performed that take special equipment, some disassembly and considerably more time to complete.

These are:

1. Testing the windings in the compressor for wear and potential shorts
2. Checking for proper refrigerant charge and small leaks
3. Checking the condition of the compressor lubricant
4. Checking the condition of the contacts in the motor start circuits

Fully checking a single system usually takes a good A/C service technician about 1 hour. The cost is usually $80 – $150. These additional tests are usually not recommended unless the system is five years old or more. The older the system, the more inclined one should be to have the system professionally checked by a service technician.

For systems over 10 years it is recommended that they be thoroughly checked every year. Air conditioning systems have a life expectancy just like people do. The reliable service life expectancy of an air conditioning system is approximately 15 years. Factors like good care and maintenance and the quality of the original product will have effect on their longevity.

Systems over 15 years of age are not only unreliable but are likely no longer operating efficiently. The cost of operation can considerably affect one’s utility bills.

Carrier, Trane and Lennox all make good equipment however, these manufacturers have been known to make some mistakes in their designs over the years. Hiring a service technician that is familiar with a particular manufacturer and model is highly recommended. Ask a factory representative for recommended service contractors in your area. Most major manufacturers have websites with names and phone numbers that you can call.

Using attic ventilators in your home

I have long advocated not using power attic ventilators, the following article gives the reasons why:
Don’t Let Your Attic Suck
by Allison Bailes III, Ph.D.

Published September 2011

Trade shows can be both educational and infuriating, and there’s one product seen at a lot of trade shows that fits easily into the latter category — power attic ventilators. The variety of this device that’s been popular lately is the solar-powered attic ventilator. Using the sun to make the electricity for this fan, however, makes it only marginally better than its grid-powered cousin.

Oh, yes, power attic ventilators probably will keep your attic cooler and that means you’ll have less conductive heat transfer across your ceiling. The problem is that a significant portion of the cooling in your attic will be provided by your air conditioner. So, you spend money to buy the fan, to run the fan if it’s not solar and then your air conditioning bill goes up, too.

How can that be, you ask? Isn’t it supposed to pull that blazing hot air from the attic and send it outside, replacing it with much cooler outdoor air that gets pulled in through the soffit and gable vents? In marketing theory, yes. Building science shows a different result, however.

What really happens is that when that power attic ventilator runs, it’s going to pull air from wherever it can find it. Since air takes the path of least resistance, some of it most likely will be coming from the conditioned space in your home. So, basically what you’re doing is air conditioning your attic. The longer the fan runs, the more conditioned air it pulls into the attic.

If you have a perfectly air-sealed ceiling, you’re not going to have this problem, of course. The reality, however, is that few ceilings are leak-free. Since air needs only a pressure difference and a pathway to move, and your ceiling probably has plenty of pathways, it’s best not to enhance any pressure differences that will increase air movement into or out of your home.

In other words, don’t install that power attic ventilator. If you have some installed already, disable them so they never run.

Power attic ventilators can cause problems even without air conditioning. One potential problem would be sucking moist, moldy air up from the crawl space into the house. Another would be backdrafting a water heater and putting carbon monoxide in the house. These are real problems from real houses that have really happened.

If you’re tempted to buy one because it’s solar-powered and won’t increase your electricity bill, go back and read what I just said. These things probably won’t save you any money. Even if they’re solar, they’ll still suck the conditioned air out of your house and make your bill higher, not lower.

Peter Yost over at Green Building Advisor wrote about solar-powered attic ventilators a couple of years ago and laid it out perfectly. He also gave a great quote by Dr. Joe Lstiburek:”In order for the fan to work, air needs to come from the outside and not be pulled from the house, so this means that the attic ceiling needs to be airtight. If the attic ceiling is airtight, you don’t need the fan. Your money is better spent on something else.”

If you want to get into the nitty-gritty research data about attics, you can download this paper (pdf) from the Florida Solar Energy Center reviewing the research not only about attic ventilation, but also about sealed attics with insulation at the roofline instead of at the flat ceiling.

The bottom line is that, in most cases, power attic ventilators are a waste of money. In some cases, they can be dangerous because of backdrafting.

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An article that surfaced in April 2010 on the Internet warned about a fire hazard associated with compact fluorescent lamps (CFL bulbs) and has been traveling the email circuit:

“Below is a picture of a CFL light bulb from my bathroom.  I turned it on the other day and then smelled smoke after a few minutes.  Four inch flames were spewing out of the side of the ballast like a blow torch!  I immediately turned off the lights.  But I’m sure it would have caused a fire if I was not right there.  Imagine if the kids had left the lights on as usual when they were not in the room.”

This has been checked out by Snopes, and stamped FALSE.

According to the Snopes article, CFLs don’t burn out the way incandescent light bulbs do. Instead, as they near the ends of their lives, they grow dimmer. While some CFL bulbs merely stop emitting light when they finally quit working, others kick the bucket with a dramatic “pop” sound and then vent a distinct odor. A few even release a bit of smoke at their termination.

Healthy CFL bulbs may emit a bit of smoke and smell and have burnt-looking bases when they die, that that’s as it should be – there’s no fire danger to any of that, and indeed the bulbs are functioning properly when they act that way.

Get the full story from the source: http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/cflbulb.asp

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Many Sellers, Real Estate Attorneys and Real Estate Sales Agents want a simple yes or no answer when a home inspector is asked the question: Is the air conditioning system functioning properly? However, a simple yes or no answer cannot address this question appropriately unless all of the following items are inspected during a home inspection.

1.    Is there evidence that the system was not professionally installed under the proper building permit and inspected by the local building department having jurisdiction?

2.    Is there evidence that the system has not been maintained properly?

3.    Is the system properly sized for the home?

4.    How old are the systems major components?

5.    Do the major components appear to be functioning properly?

6.    Are the evaporator and condensing coils clean and free of noticeable corrosion?

7.    Does the air filter element fit properly and is it keeping the evaporator coil clean?

8.    Is the condensate pan and air handler housing sufficiently water tight to prevent condensate leaks?

9.    Is there anything restricting air flow to the evaporator coil or condensing unit?

10.Are there air leaks in the ductwork?

11.Are there any signs of damage to the materials under the air handler due to condensate formation or leaks?

12.Is condensate from the air handler managed properly and freely draining outside the home?

13.Are there safety devices such as secondary pans and drains or leak detection shut off switches installed in or under the air handler?

14.Are all cold surfaces properly insulated to prevent surface condensation from forming?

15.Is the difference in the temperature of the supply air and return air between 15 and 20º F?

16.Do the system controls function properly?

A home inspector should be able to answer all of the above questions if these elements are reasonably accessible.

If there is any doubt in your mind about the need for a 3rd party inspection of a new home, in any price range, in any neighborhood, by any builder, you should spend a day in the field with me.  You would quickly appreciate just how critical a 3rd party inspection can be.  This is not to say that all construction is bad.  While no construction is perfect, many homes do turn out to be relatively free of serious errors or omissions.

However, you would truly be rolling the dice with a major investment if you were skip the 3rd party inspection process.  Instead of wasting time attempting to convince those who do not believe there is a need to have a new home inspected, I would like to focus on helping those who realize that it is necessary.  I will try to outline the advice that I give to people who contact me with questions regarding the process and walk you through the steps.

Three Pieces of Advice With New Home Construction

  • Avoid spending large sums of money on expensive upgrades.  If you are not happy with the process down the road or experience problems with the builder, you could be held hostage by the fact that you have put large sums of money into upgrades.  In some circumstances, it is necessary to have specific items rolled into the mortgage.  If at all possible, avoid putting money down on these items until after you have completed the framing inspection and determined that the builder has done an acceptable job up until that point.
  • Keep the relationship with your builder strictly professional.  I see people make this mistake on a regular basis.  Please do not misunderstand.  Your builder is probably an honest hard working individual that deserves as much respect as anyone else.  Offering that respect is necessary in order to maintain a good working relationship.  The problem lies in getting too close to the builder.  Many people go overboard in being nice to the builder, hoping it will benefit them in some way.  This makes it very difficult to be tough when you need to be.  There will probably come a time in the process when you will need to be tough or simply tell the builder that something is unacceptable to you, regardless of how he may feel about it.
  • Assume that the home will not be ready when you are told that it will be.  If you consider it an unexpected surprise that the home was finished and closed as expected, you will be much happier when it is all said and done.  Issues always seem to come up at the last minute.  If at all possible, try and allow for delays at the very end of the process.  The most common delay seems to be with getting the utilities installed.  The lack of utilities can often create scheduling difficulties with the final inspection.  If you are in a position to simply tell the builder that you plan to hold off on closing until after the inspection, they have an amazing way of speeding things up.

Foundation Inspection in New Home Construction

I do not do foundation inspections during the construction process.  I generally refer my clients to an engineer for that inspection.

Many inspectors do provide this inspection as a part of their service.  You can make the determination as to whether or not you would rather have an inspector or an engineer provide this service for you.  I honestly believe that most good home inspectors are better equipped to provide framing and final inspections than your average structural engineer.  Of course there are exceptions in every case and it truly depends entirely on the individual.  The reason that I do not provide foundation inspections is that there are too many unknowns related to the type of “pre-pour” inspection that is common in the industry.

The unknowns associated with a “pre-pour” inspection include a number of factors.  I do not know how well the soils were prepped or even what types or geological factors may be involved.  I do not know if the footings are deep and wide enough for the load that they will eventually carry.  I do not know what amount of steel is needed in the concrete or how the post-tension cables are to be laid out.  Without a great deal of measurement, I do not know if the home is wide enough, if the plumbing supply and drain lines are set properly and a great deal of other issues related to the layout.  Unless I am there during the pour, I would have no way of determining if the concrete was mixed properly or watered down.  To get the most bang for your buck, I simply recommend that you let a Structural Engineer handle this portion of the inspection process.

Framing Inspection in New Homes

This is a critical time to have a professional look at the construction.

It is best to have the inspector visit the property after the builder thinks he is ready to have insulation installed in the wall cavities.  It is preferable that all city inspections and / or builder inspections have been completed, with repairs made, prior to your inspector showing up on site.  This will give the inspector a great deal of insight about the builder and the quality of construction that can be expected from that point forward.  It is common for a builder to attempt to denying repairs at this stage. This is generally the first time that it becomes necessary to put your foot down with the builder.

In most cases I have found that the issues being argued by the builder simply do not comply with any of the major codes or the manufacturer’s installation instructions.  The fact that a particular item may have been overlooked by the municipal inspector does not mean that it is acceptable.  In some circumstances, a particular item may meet code or not specifically be addressed in the code.  As an example, the codes have very little to say about flashing systems.  Instead of specific instructions as to how a particular flashing should be installed, the code may simply state that the system is to be water tight.  This leaves things wide open to opinion and interpretation.  I have found that the builder’s idea of water tight and my own often differ.  It seems many builders believe that water tight means that an area should not leak bad enough that you are aware of it during the warranty period and if it does, caulk can always fix it.  My idea of water tight construction is that it simply should not leak.

Some of the items that are often found during a framing inspection include, but are certainly not limited to, improperly installed sheer bracing, missing or poorly installed flashings, over notched joists and studs, improperly installed cross bracing at truss systems, misplaced plumbing lines, improperly installed sill fasteners, limited support for the roof or second floor, over spanned framing members and so on and so forth.  Correction of such errors is critical prior to the installation of sheetrock.  Once the sheetrock is installed, it is unlikely that the builder will remove it later for framing repairs.  At that point you will probably end up living with the defect and hoping that a significant problem does not occur.  If that happens, an item that may have cost $20 to repair during the framing stage can easily run into the thousands of dollars and involve destructive measures that you are not going to want to deal with.

Final Inspection of New Homes

The final inspection should obviously be done prior to closing.  It is preferable that the inspection be done after all utilities are turned on and the home is ready to be lived in.  Unfortunately, it is not always possible to conduct the inspection under these circumstances.  Most municipalities require the builder to have passed all of their inspections prior to allowing the utilities to be installed.  The gas is usually the last utility to be turned on.  As a result, it is common for this to be a limitation to the final inspection.  Because the gas meter is typically installed within a few days of closing, this leaves little time for rescheduling the final inspection.  I always encourage my customers to contact the builder at least 48 hours in advance of the inspection to determine if all utilities are ready.  This provides a little more opportunity for us to rearrange our schedule so that we will still be able to inspect the home prior to closing and ensures that everyone’s time is used to the fullest.

It is inevitable that we will find issues during the final inspection.  In some cases the issues can easily be taken care of prior to closing.  These types of problems include things like incorrectly wired circuits, plumbing leaks, limited or missing insulation, poor grading at the exterior, flashing issues, binding doors and windows, loose flooring, incorrectly charged air conditioners, missing safety glass, missing or incorrectly installed fire stopping and roofing installation issues.  It is always best to have all items listed on the final inspection report corrected prior to closing.

If there is anything that the builder has agreed to fix that cannot be repaired prior to closing, I strongly encourage you to get it in writing.  You should generally expect for memories to become fuzzy and incentives to fade away once a person has collected their money.  Not only should you have the items well documented, you should also have some description as to specifically how the item is to be corrected with a completion date and the builder’s signature.  If a serious issue cannot be corrected before closing and you are not in a position to delay closing, you may try to negotiate to have a portion of the builder’s funds held in escrow until the issue has been corrected to your satisfaction.

View a sample of a new home construction inspection report

1 Year Warranty Inspection of New Homes

The one year warranty inspection is necessary in some instances.  While ongoing 3rd party inspections can turn up issues that will need to be corrected during the construction process, it is impossible to catch every potential problem that could occur.  Some issues may not surface until the home has been lived in and used for a period of time.  As an example, if there is a pinhole leak in an air conditioning refrigerant line, the air conditioner may test out acceptably during the time of the inspection.  Sooner or later the air conditioner will quit cooling properly though.  As well, a minor leak in a plumbing drain line can go unnoticed for an extended period of time.

Using the home’s systems in the course of everyday living is the only way some issues are going to be discovered.  Conducting a follow up inspection after the home has been lived in for a while, and prior to the end of your warranty period, can prove to be a worthwhile expense.  If you think you may be moving in the near future, it is always best to get the problems fixed by the builder before they show up on a buyer’s inspection report.

Closing Thoughts on New Construction Homes

I realize that building a home can seem overwhelming at times.  Adding ongoing 3rd party inspections to the process may not simplify matters either.  The insight gained from a thorough inspection can prove to be invaluable though.  If it turns out that your builder has done a good job and the home is relatively free of serious issues, you will be comforted with the knowledge that you have purchased a sound home.  If the inspection turns up unexpected issues, then you should be able to work with the builder to get them resolved so that you are still comforted with the knowledge that you have purchased a sound home.  Either way, you win!

Read more about flashing in homes.

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After taking possession of a new home, there are some maintenance and safety issues that should be addressed immediately. The following checklist should help you undertake these improvements:

  • Change the locks on all exterior entrances, for improved security.
  • Check that all windows and doors are secure. Improve window hardware as necessary. Security rods can be added to sliding windows and doors. Consideration could also be given to a security system.
  • Install smoke detectors on each level of the home. Ensure that there is a smoke detector outside all sleeping areas. Replace batteries on any existing smoke detectors and test them. Make a note to replace batteries again in one year.
  • Create a plan of action in the event of a fire in your home. Ensure that there is an operable window or door in every room of the house. Consult with your local fire department regarding fire safety issues and what to do in the event of fire.
  • Examine driveways and walkways for trip hazards. Undertake repairs where necessary.
  • Examine the interior of the home for trip hazards. Loose or torn carpeting and flooring should be repaired.
  • Undertake improvements to all stairways, decks, porches and landings where there is a risk of falling or stumbling.
  • Review your home inspection report for any items that require immediate improvement or further investigation. Address these areas as required.
  • Install rain caps and vermin screens on all chimney flues, as necessary.
  • Investigate the location of the main shut-offs for the plumbing, heating and electrical systems. If you attended the home inspection, these items would have been pointed out to you.

Regular Home Maintenance

every month

  • Check that fire extinguisher(s) are fully charged. Re-charge if necessary.
  • Examine heating/cooling air filters and replace or clean as necessary.
  • Inspect and clean humidifiers and electronic air cleaners.
  • If the house has hot water heating, bleed radiator valves.
  • Clean gutters and downspouts. Ensure that downspouts are secure, and that the discharge of the downspouts is appropriate. Remove debris from window wells.
  • Carefully inspect the condition of shower enclosures. Repair or replace deteriorated grout and caulk. Ensure that water is not escaping the enclosure during showering. Check below all plumbing fixtures for evidence of leakage.
  • Repair or replace leaking faucets or shower heads.
  • Secure loose toilets, or repair flush mechanisms that become troublesome.

spring and fall

  • Examine the roof for evidence of damage to roof coverings, flashings and chimneys.
  • Look in the attic (if accessible) to ensure that roof vents are not obstructed. Check for evidence of leakage, condensation or vermin activity. Level out insulation if needed.
  • Trim back tree branches and shrubs to ensure that they are not in contact with the house.
  • Inspect the exterior walls and foundation for evidence of damage, cracking or movement. Watch for bird nests or other vermin or insect activity.
  • Survey the basement and/or crawl space walls for evidence of moisture seepage.
  • Look at overhead wires coming to the house. They should be secure and clear of trees or other obstructions.
  • Ensure that the grade of the land around the house encourages water to flow away from the foundation.
  • Inspect all driveways, walkways, decks, porches, and landscape components for evidence of deterioration, movement or safety hazards.
  • Clean windows and test their operation. Improve caulking and weather-stripping as necessary. Watch for evidence of rot in wood window frames. Paint and repair window sills and frames as necessary.
  • Test all ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) devices, as identified in the inspection report.
  • Shut off isolating valves for exterior hose bibs in the fall, if below freezing temperatures are anticipated.
  • Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on water heaters.
  • Inspect for evidence of wood boring insect activity. Eliminate any wood/soil contact around the perimeter of the home.
  • Test the overhead garage door opener, to ensure that the auto-reverse mechanism is responding properly. Clean and lubricate hinges, rollers and tracks on overhead doors.
  • Replace or clean exhaust hood filters.
  • Clean, inspect and/or service all appliances as per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

annually

  • Replace smoke detector batteries.
  • Have the heating, cooling and water heater systems cleaned and serviced.
  • Have chimneys inspected and cleaned. Ensure that rain caps and vermin screens are secure.
  • Examine the electrical panels, wiring and electrical components for evidence of overheating. Ensure that all components are secure. Flip the breakers on and off to ensure that they are not sticky.
  • If the house utilizes a well, check and service the pump and holding tank. Have the water quality tested. If the property has a septic system, have the tank inspected (and pumped as needed).
  • If your home is in an area prone to wood destroying insects (termites, carpenter ants, etc.), have the home inspected by a licensed specialist. Preventative treatments may be recommended in some cases.

Prevention Is The Best Approach

Although we’ve heard it many times, nothing could be more true than the old cliché “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Preventative maintenance is the best way to keep your house in great shape. It also reduces the risk of unexpected repairs and improves the odds of selling your house at fair market value, when the time comes.

Ed Martin is a certified inspector for the Austin area. Ed provides real estate inspections for Austin and the surrounding communities.

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More information for single family dwelling codes regarding flashing.

Flashing is one of the most critical details of construction and is often improperly installed. It is the component that keeps water from entering joints between dissimilar building materials or other locations subject to water penetration. Flashing comes in many different shapes and sizes and is made of a number of different materials. Aluminum, galvanized metal, plastic, rubberized asphalt, butyl rubber and other specialty components are supposed to be installed in a manner that will prevent water from entering the structure.

A large percentage of Austin’s construction problems are water issues that can usually be traced back to the omission of or incorrect installation of roof and wall flashing. Most roof leaks and almost all wall leaks are directly related to flashing problems. Unfortunately the building codes have very little to say about flashing. The 2000 International One & Two Family Dwelling Code (residential) is a 566 page document that has only a few paragraphs dedicated to flashing. I have included those paragraphs at the end of this newsletter. Below are pictures that will help you to understand how flashing works and where it belongs.

Flashing Behind Wall

Flashing Behind Wall

There should be a metal Z-bar type flashing installed above the piece of trim that spans horizontally over the window.  Flashing in this location would help to prevent the water that will run off the roof directly above the window from entering behind the trim and creating a leak.

The roof to sidewall flashing also terminates behind the siding and is guaranteed to leak into the wall anyway; contributing to wood rot, probably interior staining and possibly other issues such as mold growth.

Other issues evident in this picture include the fact that the siding is too close to the roof shingles and caulking is missing at gaps between the siding and trim.

Window Flashing

Window Flashing

Once water enters behind the siding at the window and is channeled down the wall, it is likely to find another line of defense that has not been properly installed.

The moisture barrier at the base of these windows should be turned up the sides of the windows.  As it sits, any water channeled into this area will simply leak into through the joint at the window jamb.

Improper Flashing on Stucco

Rot Behind Stucco

This is a picture of what happens when you don’t flash a stucco wall system properly.  Rot and mold are inevitable when water is allowed to penetrate the building envelope.  This is not a scare tactic.

This is reality!  This was found in a multi-million dollar lake home in the heart of Austin.  It was estimated that the 5,000 square foot home needed approximately $100,000 of repairs.

Exterior Sheathing

Reverse Lap

The sheathing at the exterior of this home has not been set in shingle fashion.  Any water draining down the center section between the two upper windows will be directed into the wall when it hits the piece of horizontal sheathing that is installed directly below the upper windows.

Of course this is not even to mention the fact that sheathing is not a good substitute for flashing in the first place.  However, in this instance, the building code allows the flanges on the windows to act as a substitution for flashing.  This is why it is not uncommon to find leaking windows in a 5-7 year old home.

Window Behind Sheathing

Window Behind Sheathing

This home was inspected in the framing stage and was supposed to have stucco installed in the near future.  It is my opinion that the builder should have considered installing the exterior sheathing prior to installing the windows.

It is inevitable that the stucco to window junctions are going to leak at this home.  When you start out wrong, you are guaranteed to end up with problems later.

No Lintel Flashing

No Lintel Flashing

This brick mason is about to install brick over a lintel that has not been flashed into the wall properly.  You can guarantee that at least a portion of the water that is absorbed into brick and mortar will leak past the lintel.

Weep holes above lintels are not effective if the water never makes it to the weep hole in the first place.  Unfortunately, many homes around the Austin area are built with this same carelessness.

After Market Weep Hole

After Market Weep Hole

This weep hole is not installed at an appropriate location in the brick veneer wall.  This leads me to be fairly certain that there is no flashing in the wall assembly behind the brick.  If the flashing is present, chances are good that it is not properly installed.

The weep hole will allow air to enter the brick veneer system and dry out the wall, but it is not set in a location that will allow water that has entered the system to drain out of the wall.  Weep holes should be installed at the first course of masonry above the foundation and at the base of the wall system in all other applicable locations, such as above doors and windows.

No Pan Flashing At Door

No Pan Flashing at Door

This is a fine example of what happens when flashing is not installed below a door that is subject to splash back or wind driven rain.  The city of Austin does not require pan flashings at exterior doors.

Regardless of minimal standards, proper threshold flashing is always a good idea.  While it is very uncommon to find this piece of flashing installed, water penetrations, wood rot and damage at exterior doors is not uncommon at all.

Poor Shingle Flashing

Poor Shingle Flashing

This is the most common method of shingle installation in Central Texas.  The underlayment has been installed beneath the metal drip edge.  The manufacturer requires this on the rake edge of the roof.  The underlayment should be installed on top of the drip edge at the downhill side of the roof.

The starter course has not been installed in accordance with manufacturer installation recommendations either.  The lower tabs of the shingles should be removed from the starter course.  This allows the sealant on the shingle to provide a tight seal right at the edge of the roof and helps to prevent leaks from occurring.

Missing Wall Flashing

Missing Wall Flashing

To start with, the masonry sidewall at this brand new home is not supported properly.  (another newsletter entirely)  The flashing issue here is complicated.  For starters, the roofing contractor has installed turn-back flashing behind the brick wall which is a no-no.  Now he is going back and installing step and counter flashing after the fact.  There is still no through-wall flashing or weep system to handle water that is absorbed through the brick wall though.  Inevitably, water will be absorbed into the wall space and will not have a way to escape the structure without creating unwanted problems.

This issue goes right to the heart of the entire flashing problem.  That is that no one is directly responsible for flashing as a “system”.  While the roofer is responsible for the step and counter flashing that keeps water from entering the roof / wall junction, he should not be responsible for the brick flashing that handles water after it is absorbed into the brick veneer wall.  It seems to me that that is the mason’s responsibility.

The builder obviously does not know enough to tell his subcontractors what to do and the subcontractors claim to have done it to industry standards or builder specifications.  In many examples, the building code is either not enforced or does not specifically address the issue at hand.  The fact is that the industry standard is outdated and today’s complicated structures require more forethought and planning than we are finding in the field.

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